
Winter Driving Safety: How to Prepare Your Car and Drive on Snow and Ice
Most winter crashes start with too much speed and too little room. Here is how to prepare your car, adjust your driving and stay safe if you get stuck.

Key takeaways
- Check tires, battery, wipers and fluids before the first storm, not during it.
- On snow or ice, leave 8 to 10 seconds of following distance and do everything gently.
- Bridges, overpasses and shaded spots freeze first, even when the rest of the road looks fine.
- In a skid, ease off the pedals and look and steer where you want the car to go.
- If you are stranded, stay with the car and keep the exhaust pipe clear of snow.
In this guide
Winter roads punish small mistakes. A tap of the brakes that would be routine on dry pavement can start a slide on packed snow, and a patch of ice under an overpass can catch even careful drivers off guard.
The good news is that most winter crashes are preventable with preparation and a few changes in habit. This guide covers how to get your car ready, what to pack, how to drive on snow and ice, how to handle a skid and what to do if you get stranded.
Get Your Car Ready Before the First Storm
Do your winter checks in the fall, when shops are less busy and you are not scraping ice in the dark. They fit naturally alongside a fall home maintenance checklist for the house.
- Tires. Check the tread with a quarter: insert it upside down into a groove, and if you can see all of Washington’s head, your tread is getting too shallow for snow. Many states set the legal minimum at 2/32 inch, but traction in snow and slush drops well before that point.
- Tire pressure. Pressure falls about 1 psi for every 10 degrees F drop in temperature. Check it monthly when the tires are cold and inflate to the number on the driver’s door jamb, not the maximum printed on the tire.
- Battery. Cold weather cuts a battery’s power just when the engine needs more to start. If yours is three years old or more, ask an auto parts store or shop to test it. Many do this for free. A new battery or set of tires can be a big expense, which is one reason to keep an emergency fund for car repairs.
- Wipers and washer fluid. Replace streaking blades and fill the reservoir with winter washer fluid rated for freezing temperatures. Summer fluid can freeze on the windshield.
- Lights. Make sure headlights, taillights, brake lights and turn signals all work, and clean foggy headlight lenses.
- Antifreeze and oil. Check the coolant level and follow your owner’s manual for the right mix and oil type for cold weather.
- Heater and defroster. Confirm both work well before you need them to clear a fogged windshield.
Choosing the right tires
| Tire type | Best for | Trade-offs |
|---|---|---|
| All-season (often marked M+S) | Mild winters with occasional light snow | Rubber stiffens in cold, so grip on ice and packed snow is limited |
| All-weather (three-peak mountain snowflake symbol) | Mixed climates with regular but not severe snow | Better winter grip than all-season, can be used year-round, less capable than dedicated winter tires |
| Winter (three-peak mountain snowflake symbol) | Regular snow, ice and cold below about 45 degrees F | Wear faster in warm weather, so most people swap them out in spring |
| Studded winter | Frequent ice | Legal only in some states and only during set months; noisy on dry roads |
If you buy winter tires, install them on all four wheels. Mixing winter tires on one axle with all-season tires on the other can make the car harder to control.
Pro tip: Mounting winter tires on a second set of inexpensive wheels usually costs more up front but saves on mounting and balancing fees every spring and fall.
Pack a Winter Emergency Kit
A breakdown or a closed highway can leave you waiting for hours. Keep a kit in the car from November through March, or year-round if you live in snow country.
- Ice scraper, snow brush and a small shovel
- Sand, non-clumping cat litter or traction mats
- Jumper cables or a charged portable jump starter
- Flashlight with spare batteries, plus reflective triangles or flares
- Warm blankets, hats, gloves, socks and boots for everyone who rides with you
- Bottled water and nonperishable snacks
- Phone charging cable and a power bank
- Basic first aid kit and any medications your household needs
- A brightly colored cloth to signal for help
Keep your gas tank at least half full in winter. It gives you fuel to run the heater if you are stuck, and it helps prevent moisture from freezing in the fuel line.
Plan Every Winter Trip
Before you leave, check the forecast and road conditions. Most states offer a 511 traveler information service by phone or online, run by the state department of transportation, with closures, chain requirements and plow updates.
Clear all snow and ice from the car, not just a peephole in the windshield. That includes every window, mirror, light, the hood and the roof. Snow sliding off the roof can blind you when you brake, and chunks of ice that fly off can injure other drivers. Several states, including New Jersey and Pennsylvania, can fine drivers who leave snow or ice on their vehicles.
Some mountain routes have chain or traction laws when storms hit, notably in states such as California, Colorado and Washington. These can require snow tires, chains or approved traction devices, and they are posted on the road and on state 511 services. If you are heading into the mountains, carry chains that fit your tires and practice putting them on at home.
Finally, tell someone your route and expected arrival time on longer trips, and allow extra time so you never feel pressed to speed.
How to Drive on Snow and Ice
Everything on a slippery road should happen slowly and smoothly: starting, steering, braking and changing lanes.
| Road condition | Following distance | What to watch for |
|---|---|---|
| Dry pavement | At least 3 to 4 seconds | Normal hazards |
| Rain, slush or light snow | 5 to 6 seconds or more | Spray, reduced visibility, hydroplaning |
| Packed snow or ice | 8 to 10 seconds | Long stopping distances, sliding at intersections |
To measure following distance, note when the car ahead passes a fixed object, such as a sign, and count the seconds until you reach it.
- Accelerate gently. Pressing lightly on the gas helps the tires grip instead of spinning.
- Brake early and softly. Start slowing well before intersections, curves and stop signs.
- Skip the cruise control. On slippery roads you need full control of every change in speed.
- Slow down before curves, then hold a steady speed through them.
- Watch for ice where it hides. Bridges, overpasses, shaded stretches and the areas around intersections freeze first. Black ice looks like wet pavement, so treat any shiny surface near freezing as ice.
- On hills, build a little momentum before the climb and avoid stopping partway up. Go down slowly in a lower gear.
- Give plows plenty of room. Stay well behind them and do not pass on the right.
Four-wheel and all-wheel drive help you start and climb, but they do not shorten stopping distances. Heavier vehicles also need more room to stop, not less.
Safety note: Never warm up a car inside a garage, even with the door open. Carbon monoxide is odorless and can reach dangerous levels quickly.
Braking and Recovering From a Skid
How you brake depends on your car. Most cars sold in the US today have anti-lock brakes (ABS); check your owner’s manual or look for the ABS light that comes on briefly when you start the car.
- With ABS: press the brake firmly and keep steady pressure. The pedal may pulse or buzz. That is normal, so do not pump the brakes.
- Without ABS: squeeze the brake gently until just before the wheels lock. If they lock and the car slides, ease off a little, then reapply.
If the car begins to skid, stay calm and follow these steps:
- Take your foot off the gas, and avoid slamming the brakes.
- Look where you want the car to go, not at what you are trying to avoid. Your hands tend to follow your eyes.
- Steer gently in that direction. If the rear of the car slides to the right, steer slightly to the right.
- Be ready for the car to swing back the other way as the tires regain grip, and correct with small, smooth movements.
An empty, snow-covered parking lot, with the owner’s permission, is a safe place to feel how your car brakes and slides at low speed. Some driving schools also offer winter driving courses.
If You Get Stuck or Stranded
If your wheels spin in snow, straighten the steering wheel and stop spinning the tires, which only digs deeper. Shovel snow from around the tires and under the car, then spread sand or cat litter in front of the drive wheels. Some manuals allow gently rocking between drive and reverse; check yours first.
If you are stranded on the road:
- Stay with your vehicle. It shelters you from the cold and is easier for rescuers to find than a person on foot.
- Call for help with 911 in an emergency, or roadside assistance if you are safe and only stuck.
- Make yourself visible. Turn on hazard lights, tie a bright cloth to the antenna or door, and switch on the dome light at night.
- Run the engine sparingly, about 10 minutes each hour, to stay warm and save fuel.
- Keep the exhaust pipe clear of snow, and crack a window slightly on the side away from the wind while the engine runs, to prevent carbon monoxide buildup.
- Stay warm and moving. Layer blankets and clothing, and move your arms and legs to keep circulation going. Watch for signs of hypothermia, such as intense shivering, confusion or slurred speech.
Common Winter Driving Mistakes to Avoid
- Driving the speed limit in a storm. Posted limits are set for good conditions. Slow down to match the road.
- Clearing only part of the windshield. Limited visibility and snow on the roof put you and others at risk.
- Trusting AWD or a big vehicle too much. Traction to go is not the same as traction to stop.
- Pumping anti-lock brakes. Keep steady pressure and let the system work.
- Forgetting about tire pressure. Underinflated tires grip and handle worse, and cold weather lowers pressure quickly.
- Running low on fuel. A near-empty tank leaves you with no heat if traffic stops.
- Following too closely behind trucks and plows. Spray and blowing snow can blind you, and plows stop and turn often.
- Driving when you do not have to. During severe storms and ice, the safest trip is often the one you postpone.
The Bottom Line
Safe winter driving starts before you turn the key: good tires at the right pressure, a healthy battery, clear windows and a stocked emergency kit. On the road, slow down, leave much more room, and make every movement gentle.
When conditions turn severe, check your state’s 511 service and consider waiting it out. If you have questions about your car’s winter readiness, a trusted mechanic or tire shop can inspect your tires, battery and brakes before the season begins.
Frequently asked questions
Do I really need winter tires?
If you regularly drive in snow, ice or temperatures below about 45 degrees F, winter tires grip and stop noticeably better than all-season tires. In milder regions with occasional snow, good all-season or all-weather tires with deep tread may be enough. Look for the three-peak mountain snowflake symbol on tires rated for severe snow.
Does all-wheel drive make winter driving safe?
All-wheel drive helps you get moving and climb hills, but it does not help you stop or steer on ice. Every car relies on its tires for braking and cornering. Drive an AWD vehicle with the same caution as any other.
How should I brake on ice?
If your car has anti-lock brakes, press firmly and steadily and let the system work, even if the pedal pulses. Without ABS, squeeze the brake gently just short of locking the wheels, and ease off slightly if they lock. In both cases, start braking much earlier than usual.
Should I warm up my car before driving?
Modern cars only need about 30 seconds to a minute before you drive off gently. Use that time to clear all snow and ice from the windows, lights and roof. Never run the engine in a closed garage, because carbon monoxide can build up quickly.
What should I do if I get stuck in snow?
Straighten the wheels, clear snow from around the tires and under the car, and spread sand or cat litter for traction. Rock gently between drive and reverse if your owner's manual allows it. If you cannot get free, stay with the car and call for help.


